inside the razor
wire life is luxury plus
outside raptors rule
Saturday 31 August 2013
Pure wild magic.
My turn to Blog, my take on the last seven days of dust, dirt and sand tracks, long hauls of straight tar road stretching into the heat haze, wonderful dreamtime camp sites sitting under the stars by a dying camp fire.
The next destination after our epic adventure on the Okavango River was up to Chobe River Lodge, on the equally mighty Chobe River. everyone got their experience of driving soft sand tracks in the National Park, and some memorable sightings of animals were made, including a great river trip with a knowledgeable guide. The evening of that day we all donned our best attire to take a Dinner Cruise on the river and raise our glasses to an ever young birthday girl Lindsay.
Next day Lindsay and I drove down to our much loved Elephant Sands with Pru and Keith, for their last night with us, and the camp did us proud with about thirty elephants crowding the water hole just beyond the the bar terrace.
Then, as Lynn and Ellen have so eloquently described, we set off the six of us plus Roan our Guide and Kabo our Chef, who produced some amazing camp meals, and taught me how to make camp bread and cook it on the fire. With much merriment we agreed that I must try it out on the rest on our next 'wild camp'' , and send pictures to her to prove that I am an able enough pupil (Hmm...don't be sure you will see those pics on the Blog!! ).
For Lindsay and I returning again to Hwange National Park, being back in Zimbabwe after a long absence, was quite powerful. Sad to see the Parks decline over these hard years for Zim, but wonderful to talk to the smiling stoical staff there, who apart from one rather officious customs person, were as we remembered, a delight.
I can't fully describe the awesome wonder of sleeping out under the stars, in a wild place, hearing the sounds of lion and elephant, and who knows what else. Sitting at the camp fire as the baboons squabbled noisily over night perches high above us in the jackleberry tree. And the kill so well described by the others.
Driving in the Park at dawn, we saw little game, but the experience of our four vehicles tussling with cratered tracks, and heaving up rocky inclines in a rising cloud of dust was terrific. We even did our good turn to a couple of guys whose vehicle had hit electrical fault problems, and a joint heaving and hitching got them fixed to a tow rope and out of the soft sand of the camp, whence Roan towed them to Robins Camp some 30 k away to get sorted out.
Then, sadly, it was back through the Park to the Pandamatenga Border Post, and down again to Elephant Sands, for a well deserved few cold beers and more elephant watching.
And now, Saturday the 31st, we are at Nata Lodge on the edge of the great Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Some pool dipping, a good bit of cleaning out of accumulated dust, and then we set out to enter the Pan and head again into some remote camping under the stars.
All going spiffingly!!
The next destination after our epic adventure on the Okavango River was up to Chobe River Lodge, on the equally mighty Chobe River. everyone got their experience of driving soft sand tracks in the National Park, and some memorable sightings of animals were made, including a great river trip with a knowledgeable guide. The evening of that day we all donned our best attire to take a Dinner Cruise on the river and raise our glasses to an ever young birthday girl Lindsay.
Next day Lindsay and I drove down to our much loved Elephant Sands with Pru and Keith, for their last night with us, and the camp did us proud with about thirty elephants crowding the water hole just beyond the the bar terrace.
Then, as Lynn and Ellen have so eloquently described, we set off the six of us plus Roan our Guide and Kabo our Chef, who produced some amazing camp meals, and taught me how to make camp bread and cook it on the fire. With much merriment we agreed that I must try it out on the rest on our next 'wild camp'' , and send pictures to her to prove that I am an able enough pupil (Hmm...don't be sure you will see those pics on the Blog!! ).
For Lindsay and I returning again to Hwange National Park, being back in Zimbabwe after a long absence, was quite powerful. Sad to see the Parks decline over these hard years for Zim, but wonderful to talk to the smiling stoical staff there, who apart from one rather officious customs person, were as we remembered, a delight.
I can't fully describe the awesome wonder of sleeping out under the stars, in a wild place, hearing the sounds of lion and elephant, and who knows what else. Sitting at the camp fire as the baboons squabbled noisily over night perches high above us in the jackleberry tree. And the kill so well described by the others.
Driving in the Park at dawn, we saw little game, but the experience of our four vehicles tussling with cratered tracks, and heaving up rocky inclines in a rising cloud of dust was terrific. We even did our good turn to a couple of guys whose vehicle had hit electrical fault problems, and a joint heaving and hitching got them fixed to a tow rope and out of the soft sand of the camp, whence Roan towed them to Robins Camp some 30 k away to get sorted out.
Then, sadly, it was back through the Park to the Pandamatenga Border Post, and down again to Elephant Sands, for a well deserved few cold beers and more elephant watching.
And now, Saturday the 31st, we are at Nata Lodge on the edge of the great Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Some pool dipping, a good bit of cleaning out of accumulated dust, and then we set out to enter the Pan and head again into some remote camping under the stars.
All going spiffingly!!
Birds of Chobe National Park
Our wonderful birders, Pru and Keith (the professor) who have sadly left us after Chobe, have written a list of the birds we saw on our first evening's night cruise on the Chobe River - 45 species of birds, and the animals of course, but here are the list of birds.
White breasted cormorant, Reed cormorant, Darter, Goliath Heron, Purple Heron, Grey Heron, Yellow Billed Egret, Great White Heron, Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Squauuo (?) Heron, Black Heron, Slaty Egret, Black Crowned Night Heron, Yellow Billed Stork, Maribou Stork, African Spoonbill Stork, Spoonbill, Glossy Ibis, Sacred Ibis, Egyptian Goose, Fish Eagle,Yellow Billed Kite, Gaba Goshawk, Helmeted Guinea Fowl, Black Crake, Long toed (?) lapwing Plover, Blacksmith Lapwing Plover, Little Stint, Common Sandpiper, Greenshank, Skimmer, Grey-headed Gull, Lourie (grey), Giant Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, Malachita Kingfisher, White Fronted Bee Eater, African Grey Hornbill, Red billed hornbill, Wire Tailed Swallow, African Pipet, Red-billed oxperker (?), Marico Sunbird, Jaunnm (?).
Apologies for some of the spelling - the professors's handwriting a bit hard to decipher - I hope someone more knowledgable can correct them.
Needless to say most of us did not see so many, but we loved what we did see, just an incredible variety of birds on the river.
Ellen
White breasted cormorant, Reed cormorant, Darter, Goliath Heron, Purple Heron, Grey Heron, Yellow Billed Egret, Great White Heron, Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Squauuo (?) Heron, Black Heron, Slaty Egret, Black Crowned Night Heron, Yellow Billed Stork, Maribou Stork, African Spoonbill Stork, Spoonbill, Glossy Ibis, Sacred Ibis, Egyptian Goose, Fish Eagle,Yellow Billed Kite, Gaba Goshawk, Helmeted Guinea Fowl, Black Crake, Long toed (?) lapwing Plover, Blacksmith Lapwing Plover, Little Stint, Common Sandpiper, Greenshank, Skimmer, Grey-headed Gull, Lourie (grey), Giant Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, Malachita Kingfisher, White Fronted Bee Eater, African Grey Hornbill, Red billed hornbill, Wire Tailed Swallow, African Pipet, Red-billed oxperker (?), Marico Sunbird, Jaunnm (?).
Apologies for some of the spelling - the professors's handwriting a bit hard to decipher - I hope someone more knowledgable can correct them.
Needless to say most of us did not see so many, but we loved what we did see, just an incredible variety of birds on the river.
Ellen
Nights in Hwange
We have just set up camp at Nata Lodge for a couple of nights recovery after an
amazing 2 nights in the Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe, followed by one night at the wonderful Elephant Sands with our host Roan (our tour guide too) and his fiance Inga.
No fences on our campsite on Hwange, and surrounded by elephants coming down to the water hole close by, antelope, baboons (very naughty), wart hogs, zebra. Elephants chased away the baboons by trumpeting. In a very ordered way the elephants went down to the water hole, one family herd waiting in line for the herd in the water hole to move on, slowly, although sometimes they almost ran to the water hole, elephants are the second fastest animal in Africa - first is the cheetah (which we might see in the next few days). Last night we stayed at Elephant Sands, where the elephants walk around the camp site and we had drinks watching an elephant drink about 10m away - just remarkable.
The last night in Hwange we were having dinner, and our guide Roan, was telling us some tall tales about the size on the lions in the park, and he said don't go to the loo with your torch on as you don't want to see the size of the lion that attacks you (ha ha), then he stopped and said - that's a kill (we thought he was joking). But we all heard the lions roaring and another animal cry out, as it was about 6 lions who attacked probably a buffalo or maybe a zebra (our chef Kabo thought the latter). We heard the lions growling and dragging the prey off during the night - all about 50 m from our campsite (Lions are not interested in us), but there was a barrier between us. No sign of it in the morning, so they dragged it off somewhere to eat.
Photos cannot be loaded as interent too slow again, and I can't get photos off my camera to this computer, so will put photos up when I get home.
We are off to the pans tomorrow, more zebra, and not sure what else, probably lots of birds.
Ellen
No fences on our campsite on Hwange, and surrounded by elephants coming down to the water hole close by, antelope, baboons (very naughty), wart hogs, zebra. Elephants chased away the baboons by trumpeting. In a very ordered way the elephants went down to the water hole, one family herd waiting in line for the herd in the water hole to move on, slowly, although sometimes they almost ran to the water hole, elephants are the second fastest animal in Africa - first is the cheetah (which we might see in the next few days). Last night we stayed at Elephant Sands, where the elephants walk around the camp site and we had drinks watching an elephant drink about 10m away - just remarkable.
The last night in Hwange we were having dinner, and our guide Roan, was telling us some tall tales about the size on the lions in the park, and he said don't go to the loo with your torch on as you don't want to see the size of the lion that attacks you (ha ha), then he stopped and said - that's a kill (we thought he was joking). But we all heard the lions roaring and another animal cry out, as it was about 6 lions who attacked probably a buffalo or maybe a zebra (our chef Kabo thought the latter). We heard the lions growling and dragging the prey off during the night - all about 50 m from our campsite (Lions are not interested in us), but there was a barrier between us. No sign of it in the morning, so they dragged it off somewhere to eat.
Photos cannot be loaded as interent too slow again, and I can't get photos off my camera to this computer, so will put photos up when I get home.
We are off to the pans tomorrow, more zebra, and not sure what else, probably lots of birds.
Ellen
How to prepare for retirement!
Hi
Apologies to everybody for my lack of input to the blog. Unfortunately loss of ipad has meant limited access to the internet.
Well, what a run up to retirement (last day of permanent paid work today!). We've canoed on the Okavengo Delta (including shooting some rapids). Quite an achiement for me (Lynn) - many will know what a water-phobe I am! If you've read Eric's entry, you will know of the formation of the Mothers group.
Amazing wildlife throughout the trip so far. Managed to see a cheetah on the plains of Etosha and then leopard in Chobe - have now completed the Big Five. Fantastic birdlife too. Currently at Nata and planning a trip to a bird reserve tomorrow.
After a lot of anticipation, we entered Botswana very quietly. I had been waiting for a visa from the Botswana High Commission (linked to replacement passport)which failed to arrive - but we were waved through the border - just hope they let us out!
Fantastic few days in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe culminating in, according to our guide, at least 6 lions attacking a water buffalo at night just outside out camp! We could only see white eyes through the darkness, but could certainly hear them throughout the night. No trips to the loo that night!
Stopped last night at Elephant Sands - lots of elephants visited the waterhole below the bar area.
Next stop is the Salt Pans.
Lynn
Saturday 24 August 2013
The Mothers go kayaking on the Okavanga
The Mothers received their sobriquet from Gerhard, one of our supurb guides on the river. We have just completed two days paddling two person inflatables down the Okavango River, negotiating rapids, camping on an island, carefully not negotiating hippos and crocodiles.
We commenced some many kilometres up river from Ngepi Camp close to the Angolan Border, which runs spasmodically along the far bank for the bulk of the journey. Few hippos on the first day, mainly due to massive killing during the Angolan War, when they became a food source. The two guides with us chose routes that skirted a labrynthine network of islands and channels, some providing some excellent opportunities for all of us to ground our inflatables on rocks. A first challenging rapids shot adrenaline levels sky high, and high fives were hit at the other end.
The night was a magic encampment on a small island, a clearing in the bush, a huge fire, and for the meat eaters a feast of boreworst and steak. And cold beers of course. We honour the person who invented the cool box. The night hearing the rustles of bushes, and sloughing of wind for me set imaginings into childhood stories of adventurers.
The second day, after aching muscles had been stretched and egg and bacon over the embers of the fire eaten ( well eggs for L and I ), we set off again. A haul over a blocked channel gave the ''boys'' some unintended extra exercise, and more rapids raised all our heart beats.
Against the rush of rapids there were long stretches of silent calm water, serene in the most perfect way.
The safari ended with the much anticipated Popa Falls rapids. a great whoosh of white water, twisting round rocks, and ejection into the calm of the end of the trip.
That's my take. Over to the others. eric
We commenced some many kilometres up river from Ngepi Camp close to the Angolan Border, which runs spasmodically along the far bank for the bulk of the journey. Few hippos on the first day, mainly due to massive killing during the Angolan War, when they became a food source. The two guides with us chose routes that skirted a labrynthine network of islands and channels, some providing some excellent opportunities for all of us to ground our inflatables on rocks. A first challenging rapids shot adrenaline levels sky high, and high fives were hit at the other end.
The night was a magic encampment on a small island, a clearing in the bush, a huge fire, and for the meat eaters a feast of boreworst and steak. And cold beers of course. We honour the person who invented the cool box. The night hearing the rustles of bushes, and sloughing of wind for me set imaginings into childhood stories of adventurers.
The second day, after aching muscles had been stretched and egg and bacon over the embers of the fire eaten ( well eggs for L and I ), we set off again. A haul over a blocked channel gave the ''boys'' some unintended extra exercise, and more rapids raised all our heart beats.
Against the rush of rapids there were long stretches of silent calm water, serene in the most perfect way.
The safari ended with the much anticipated Popa Falls rapids. a great whoosh of white water, twisting round rocks, and ejection into the calm of the end of the trip.
That's my take. Over to the others. eric
Wednesday 21 August 2013
eric still on his holiday.....
ngepi at last. lindsay and i have so been looking forward to being here again. mad hippy place, right on thr river, hippos spesk to me. four of us are sitting in the bar, cloaked in warm night air, cold beers, waiting for that first magic hurrmph of hippo. showers open to the skies, loos open to the bush, and the skies, fab place. we also love the drive up from Sarasunga river lodge, the road dissapearing into the heat haze, villages wrapt in their own timeless rythems, us the onlookers. supper over an open fire on the bank of the river tonight. oh desqry me, i love this.
xxlotsofhugs from eric
xxlotsofhugs from eric
Tsumeb and Rundu
I am loving watching the people, thr villages along the road, small roung huts in compounds, with goats, cattle and a few chooks. The cows (oxen really with bug horns), pulling a sledge wagon. Markets at Rundu selling a range of wears, big bowls of flours, grains, stalls of fabrics, electronic repairs (recycled bits) and more.
Ngepi is delightful, a jewel in the Okavanga river. I'm waiting to hear the hippos tonight, I'm told they will be loud...
Ellen
the next instalment of the visa saga and other things
Had an amazing stay in Etosha with wonderful wildlife to see. Mixture of the evocative salt pans, shrubland and savannah. Lots of animals including cheetah (at a distance).
moved on now to Ngepi, right on the Okavanga delta.
No sign yet of visa; we are living in hope of Sunday arrival. Off tomorrow for a day on the delta and overnight camping on an island. Have insisted on checking out availability of life jackets!
Lynn
moved on now to Ngepi, right on the Okavanga delta.
No sign yet of visa; we are living in hope of Sunday arrival. Off tomorrow for a day on the delta and overnight camping on an island. Have insisted on checking out availability of life jackets!
Lynn
Tuesday 20 August 2013
Etosha and the Pans
Well we left Palmwag with Pru and Keith on sunday and drove down to Outjo, where a mechanic replaced their beautifully shredded tyre, then it was up to Etosha, a 100 by 60 kilometre odd national Reserve.
For Lindsay and I, the stays at two Camps, Halali and Namutoni have again been full of ''15 years ago it was...'' . we have been on game drives, seen elephants and game, but most of all for me, it has been the experience of the space. Two years without rain has created a scorched brown veld, where zebra and antelope and other animals seen miraculously to scrape food. The water holes have been lovely with everyone seeing different mixes of game. Evenings at the camp are about sitting round the ''braai'' cooking and eating in delightful disorder, and of course sharing stories of the day over cold beers and chilled wine. We now have over 1300 kilometres of driving, a lot on dirt, dust covered roads, the slip streams are impressive.
We are now in a friendly café in Tsumeb, with wi fi, meeting with Edith, our link to the twin town we share, we have passed on the gifts we brought, and are learning of the projects and life in the town. And soon off north again to the riverine environment of the Okavango. More anon. ps...I'm loving it all !!!!!!!!!!!
For Lindsay and I, the stays at two Camps, Halali and Namutoni have again been full of ''15 years ago it was...'' . we have been on game drives, seen elephants and game, but most of all for me, it has been the experience of the space. Two years without rain has created a scorched brown veld, where zebra and antelope and other animals seen miraculously to scrape food. The water holes have been lovely with everyone seeing different mixes of game. Evenings at the camp are about sitting round the ''braai'' cooking and eating in delightful disorder, and of course sharing stories of the day over cold beers and chilled wine. We now have over 1300 kilometres of driving, a lot on dirt, dust covered roads, the slip streams are impressive.
We are now in a friendly café in Tsumeb, with wi fi, meeting with Edith, our link to the twin town we share, we have passed on the gifts we brought, and are learning of the projects and life in the town. And soon off north again to the riverine environment of the Okavango. More anon. ps...I'm loving it all !!!!!!!!!!!
Saturday 17 August 2013
African proverb
If you want to travel fast, travel alone.
If you want to travel far, travel together.
If you want to travel far, travel together.
No leopards yet!
Lindsay and Eric chose to have a lie in, but the rest of us went out on a game drive. A great introduction to wildlife spotting and helping us to get our eye in!
Spottings include:
(connection is slow, but we are in the middle of nowhere - I think an elephant is on a treadmill to generate this)
Elephants are plentiful around the campsite. One wandered through (literally) during supper last night - about 10 m away!
Spottings include:
- giraffe (lots)
- oryx (42.5)
- zebra (lots)
- lots of elephant bottoms
- lion
- baboons
- springbok (loads and loads, and very bouncy)
- a leaopard's lair
- Egyptian geese
- some sort of grouse
(connection is slow, but we are in the middle of nowhere - I think an elephant is on a treadmill to generate this)
Elephants are plentiful around the campsite. One wandered through (literally) during supper last night - about 10 m away!
And meanwhile......
We four drove though our first long dirt road and pass from Windhoek, getting to Swakopmund just as the sun dipped down, a phew bit of driving as we did not want to be driving desert roads in the dark. Then next day we headed up the wonderfully titled Skeleton Coast road to get to the even more romantically titled Mile 108 Camp Site.
For Lindsay and I a return after fifteen years absence, and it hadn't changed a bit, the same desolate remoteness, relentless wind off the Atlantic, and long drop toilets. We wished we could say we hadn't changed a bit too. We set up camp the four of us, and prepared a welcome for the rest of the team heading our way. Re united, a camp fire lit, and warm clothes on, the Atlantic and wind make for cold nights, we celebrated as you do.
Friday saw us all united, four meaty 4x4's cruising up the dirt road, ever deeper into the Namib. The wind remained strong, gusting sand in clouds across the track, a good impression of sand blasting for all the vehicles. And first blow out to Pru and Keith, a spectacular shredding of a rear tyre, followed by a Team Tyre Change, all accomplished with the aplomb of seasoned desert hands. The drive to where we are now, at Palmwag was quite marvellous, arid red, yellow and ochre rock and the dark stretching of the endless desert. Not a welcoming environment to try and live, but people do.
Now, on Saturday, we are encamped at this lovely little oasis, washing out sand from every crevice of ourselves and the vehicles, and readying the next leg. Game drives have been done.
For Lindsay and I a return after fifteen years absence, and it hadn't changed a bit, the same desolate remoteness, relentless wind off the Atlantic, and long drop toilets. We wished we could say we hadn't changed a bit too. We set up camp the four of us, and prepared a welcome for the rest of the team heading our way. Re united, a camp fire lit, and warm clothes on, the Atlantic and wind make for cold nights, we celebrated as you do.
Friday saw us all united, four meaty 4x4's cruising up the dirt road, ever deeper into the Namib. The wind remained strong, gusting sand in clouds across the track, a good impression of sand blasting for all the vehicles. And first blow out to Pru and Keith, a spectacular shredding of a rear tyre, followed by a Team Tyre Change, all accomplished with the aplomb of seasoned desert hands. The drive to where we are now, at Palmwag was quite marvellous, arid red, yellow and ochre rock and the dark stretching of the endless desert. Not a welcoming environment to try and live, but people do.
Now, on Saturday, we are encamped at this lovely little oasis, washing out sand from every crevice of ourselves and the vehicles, and readying the next leg. Game drives have been done.
Here we are in Africa
First stop Maison Ambre, for a well deserved sleep and delicious breakfast of .... everything!!!
Savannah Car Rentals next for the low down on the vehicles. Very long process, and very comprehensive, and now we know all about 4wd Toyota Safari vehicles with top tents, and we are getting better at using them every day.
Onto the petrol station to fill up, unfortunately Lynn and Ellen had bags stolen, losing Lynn's passport, driving license, and mini ipad and phones, and a few other things. Ellen lost ipad, ipod and ipod and a few other things. Replacement passport in place now, and awaiting visa for Botswana. Spent time at local police station at the Tourist Police who took comprehensive statements for our insurance... oh well.
But onto more positive things, and we arrived at the Skeleton Coast Mile 108 campsite, on Wednesday, to the welcome sight of our 4 travelling companions and a fabulous meal, and a G & T.
Over to Eric for the next instalment.
Savannah Car Rentals next for the low down on the vehicles. Very long process, and very comprehensive, and now we know all about 4wd Toyota Safari vehicles with top tents, and we are getting better at using them every day.
Onto the petrol station to fill up, unfortunately Lynn and Ellen had bags stolen, losing Lynn's passport, driving license, and mini ipad and phones, and a few other things. Ellen lost ipad, ipod and ipod and a few other things. Replacement passport in place now, and awaiting visa for Botswana. Spent time at local police station at the Tourist Police who took comprehensive statements for our insurance... oh well.
But onto more positive things, and we arrived at the Skeleton Coast Mile 108 campsite, on Wednesday, to the welcome sight of our 4 travelling companions and a fabulous meal, and a G & T.
Over to Eric for the next instalment.
Saturday 10 August 2013
Important information for anyone travelling to Africa
Please refer to the Africa Safari 2013 : Final Briefing page for this terribly important information sheet.
Wednesday 7 August 2013
From comment to life for real
Right. Now time to move from a comment to my very own first Blog entry. Around me lies all the indispensable kit for a Safari in the wide salt pans and deserts of Namibia and Botswana. Gaffer tape and cable ties for bits that fall off, grapefruit knife for, well, that's ok, torches, spare batteries, plugs and wires, pills and potions and creams for this and that. A few clothes. Stuff. Let indeed this latest Awfully Big Adventure recommence.
Monday 5 August 2013
Africa, we are ready!!!
The planning is done, the tickets are booked, the 4wds are ready to pick up and the group of intrepid Ellepfantiks are leaving on Monday 5th August 2013, on one very big adventure. First stop in J'berg, where the travellers, Lindsay, Eric, Fox, Adrian, Lynn, Pru, Keith and Ellen will all meet to enjoy the airport lounge for a few hours before the flight to Windhoek and pick up the 4WD campers.
Only 7 more sleeps to go... We are excited! Very excited.
Only 7 more sleeps to go... We are excited! Very excited.
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